Sunday, 2 November 2014

The Eiffel that needed a triffle taming!

Yawn, Yawn, Yawn... apologies... another top!! In my defence this was made last month when I were still in top mode.. "clutching my straws tight!"
B5610, Misses' Top
Butterick 5610's older sibling was delivered back here in the summer, and it has to be said been worn lots n lots. With this in mind, it only seemed fair to let the other version poke its snout out of the packet to do its stuff!...only nearly turned out to be the runt of the litter!
A smidgen of the blame here has to be proportioned on the makers choice of fabric here... don't they say a bad tradesman always blames his tools! 
Still learning my fabric mixes, it's definitely cotton but with a hint of poly! but not as much as a full poly-cotton if you get my drift ... making sense? anyway, the result, a whisp too much of (un)reasonable body to it. Blowing caution to the wind and loving the little Eiffel's I ploughed on regardless. In fact I liked it that much,I bought more in this colour way !! Bad me !
The main problem with the body in the fabric were the pleats, boy did they "bellow out"... I managed to create an effect that was more of like the sails of the Black Pig (Captain Pugwash- any body remember it?)  

Scratchy head moment and pattern instructions read...over n over, yep them pleats  were only supposed to be anchored top n bottom.These beasties needed to be battened down.
Not wanting to see top stitching on the front and retain a pleat affect, a line of stitches were run along the pleats on the inside edges...
Simple in itself one would think!-HAHA had two stuffed up goes! .. its that reverse mirror thing. .. you never done that when you looking at a garment and end up getting left n right cofuzzled?
The result then, a much tamer version me thinks and on the plus side wearable.
I added a couple of darts in the back to give it a little more shaping and had a random black button knocking around so placed this on the neckline for added detail.

 Outcome ..I really like the top but to be picky ( as we all are!), either the neck band/collar is a tad too big or the stiffness encourages it stand out a little hmmm!
will consider making this again but in a much draper fabric to do a little compare and contrast exercise.

Thanks for dropping by: Happy sewing Amanda XX  

Sunday, 19 October 2014

Boing Boing -It's A Blog Hop

Well howdy folks - how's you all been?
Once again the cloak of radio silence has fallen over me, 
what a mad time of late, but loving it!
(I also need to get my camera fixed asap) 

Well, I am very humbled to have had the blog hoppin baton passed to me from the amazingly wonderful Annie  from the Enantiomer Project- seriously this woman is  like "super" cool... a sewing scientist! she's totally witty, and sews a wardrobe out like a blinkin rocket! I really don't know how she manages to produce so many items that are so god darn beautiful at lightening speed.  So Annie, I salute you. xx 

Why do I write? 
To be honest....I have no idea!  Initially I set my blog up to be able to follow others that had/did/and still do inspire me, pick their sewing brains by showing my wares and gain insight tips that I struggle with.
After having a number of sews under the proverbial belt, like most I wanted to document and record my journey of makes. I'd also found that the back of an my diary was filling up on the useful things I'd found out, learnt or just flippin useful. This led me to thinking that it'd be kinda neat to locate all of this info and more all in one place, and a blog seemed to be the perfect solution. 
The whole "it's my personal space, a place to log events is oneside...... but lets be honest there is that secret hope that someone out there might read it! as for comments well woooo I still get a giddy thrill if that happens. Finally, one additional reason is the old connective rambles of yardi sew yar with like minded peeps. As hubby works late evenings and young peeps that really couldn't give a bobbin, it does allow the sewing world to partake in your obsession interest and offer support and vice versa. Love it!  

What am I working on at the moment?
Technically - I'm not working on this "now" but have just completed this week this here Irish dance dress for little girl who dances at little Wyatt's class. I'd been asked to make her a dress ready for the Grerat Britain Championships... and long story short somehow I mixed the dates up! what would normally take 3-4 weeks I had in days!!! my machine needle was moving up n down a fast as Michael Flatley's feet!
A couple of 3am's were called for but got there in the end phew!!  I've not ever done a post on an Irish dress - not sure if there would be much interest ?

Up on the oche table next ...well that will be a scramble, there really are too many to name, so many pieces of fabric ready washed and poised to be matched with a pattern. I am pretty determined to move away from tops though after making a fare amount lately and not posted at least three of them! Aha - nearly forgot I am working on this lovely cardi - its in Alpakka wool which is so super soft, I only do a little at a time so its taking for ever  

How does my blog differ form other sewing blogs?
errrmm... probably the biggest difference is that its pretty boring! I'm feel really very inexperienced at this blogging malarkey and would love to be able to post whimsical notions full of enlightening sewing stuff !
Having interesting photo locations would be another plus! 

I would love to put some tutorially bits together in the future, after covering/teaching a sewing class in the  summer,  I totally loved engaging with the ladies, they gave me such wonderful feedback, I'm now looking to develop new ventures that incorporate sewing!! eekkk watch this space! 

How does my writing process work
This is quite a hard one! lots of ways I suppose; sometimes a title will pop into my head, a bit like fabric/print/pattern association! My last couple of posts have been linked musically, which can be quite annoying as the song keeps going over n over in my head!
I love to run and find it's a great opportunity to focus and departmentalise areas of my life or projects, which I can then formulate key areas that I want to chat about on a project- More often than not though, by the time I get to sit down a write I've forgotten most of it!  
The writing itself can be painfully long winded, jumping from one incomplete sentence to another...enter the cut 'n' paste tab, swiftly followed by the delete button to put the regurgitated waffle in its place- Awwww and that one hurts! 
Pics are very much the latter import to a post, I am acutely aware that I really should take more pics along the assembly way and have numerous Bridget Jones talks of "note to self"  when posting. 

There we have it, my blog-hop post- My nomination for a hop, is to the lovely Jennifer and her sewing space    another Sewing Scientist(y) bod with aeroplanes no-less!!! 

Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Getting my Kicks on Route 66

A quick little post; 1) because this is the third post in less than two weeks (unbelievable) and 2) there's not that much to say about this make!
I ran this Butterick 5354 up about three weeks ago on a selfish sew evening - I seem to be doing lots of other sewing to do with either craft projects or for others lately and quite frankly I was feeling neglected and deprived. all together now awwwww. 
The remedy- a speedy stretch jersey top to satisfy the cravings. The fabric is from Barry's in Birmingham- it's super soft and I loved the American vibe going on in the pattern. 

If My memory serves me correct,  I cut a straight size 10 as this is classed as a loose fit top and I prefer a slightly more fitted style, especially with the "wearing ease" this fabric gives you. 
Check me out ...I can say that now, I went on a course a couple of weeks ago ( info to blog about later) but as a small point I learnt about considering pattern design wearing ease and fabric ease! - pretty obvious now but huzzar its certainly helped on the sizing side of things.

Any how with just four pattern pieces, this was soon thrown together. 
The pleats are slightly lost in the print of the fabric but who cares! 
I know they're there :) 

If I make this again- which I'm pretty sure I will, I may lengthen the body and sleeves by 1/2 inch. There're kinda fine as they are, but being a lazy bum I left the sleeves and hip line as an over-locked finish. I quite like the casual finish and after wearing a few times now I think if they had of been hemmed up they potentially could be border line short (my excuse and sticking to it!)
  Well there we go short 'n' sweet -

Posting this it has made me conscious that tops have played a prominent part of late; with one other to post and one on the sewing table that's been finished off! May-be it's because they are quick fixes, fulfil the gratification mood and work the wardrobe well- do you have an item that you hone into, for a quick fix?
I have plenty of patterns and fabric lined up, raring to get they're stitches into skirts, dress', trousers and a jacket  even- so note to self - must get more focused!

Bye for now, thanks for stopping by- Amanda X


Sunday, 5 October 2014

Didn't we have a lovely day, the day we went to #SewBrum

Blimey O'Riley, what an amazing day out yesterday! 
The lovely Charlotte  from English girl at home, only went and organised a sew meet-up and it was one heck of an awesome day. Thank you!

Still classing my self as a newbie, I've never had the proverbial's to go to a meet up but when I saw it was on familiar stomping ground and in my regular fabric haunts of Barry's and Silk Store it seemed the perfect opportunity to loose my sewing meet-up virginity! Plus the double whammy to go to Guthrie & Ghani 
Not sure if my heart was beating so hard after legging it over town to meet at the train station or excited nerves! On my dash, thoughts went through my mind; would I spot them easily, would I recognise many from their blogs, what is the collective for a gathering/group of sewists? a bolt of, a ruffle of, ....It wasn't difficult to find everyone cus we're all dress in amazing original outfits!
We snaked our way to Barry's in the rain, but no spirits were dampened;  the chatter of introductions and sewing tails filled the air.   

Apologies for the total lack of pics from the day- think I was so in-awe of the whole event I totally forgot! It was lovely to chat to everyone (well a fair few, near-on impossibility getting round everyone)  clutching a bolt or two, three even four at times and discussing their plans for said fabric, it was such a treat to see how other minds interpreted fabric, shared advise and generally exchanged "fab-ric" tips. 

Some did managed to restrain themselves on the amount of fabric purchased, not me though- here's what was purchased - top left- tapestry type cotton print for a tunic, along with a gorgeous crepe de chine that was deliberated over with one delightful sewer who's name totally escapes me - a stretch animal print jersey, a circle print chiffon at £2.00 a mtr (rude not too) an adorable peacock feather cotton sateen that will probably end up as some sort of top and a great faux leather for what I'm hoping will work as a circular skirt. 

What do you reckon - will it work okay?

Some Christmas fabric- hoping to do a craft fayre  beginning of Dec 

The afternoons proceedings were spent out in Moseley at the divine HQ of Guthrie & Ghani-Not only is Lauren the dearest sweetest individual but her fabric cutting ladies are super enthusiastic and attentive. 
Drool time - think I fell in love with practically every piece of fabric,to the point I nearly didn't buy anything! ... however, sense prevailed and the credit card came out again! ouch- I went for this gorgeous pink fleck wool mix for a fitted panelled pencil skirt and a flouncy speckled purple blouse that's not quite been confirmed yet.     
Line Art

Upstairs  in the workshop room we gathered to chat some more, drink tea, lemonade and eat cake...adorned with enable button no less!!!. The high-light of the afternoon was to partake in what only can be described as the best ever raffle, books, notions, patterns and a whopper of a sewing machine! - never have I seen such amazing raffle prizes, each and everyone you  would just die for....ticket clutched in clammy palm but alas I never won, however warm fuzziness knowing all the proceeds are going to the great cause of Parkinson's UK. A pattern and fabric swapsie completed the day's ensemble, lots to oooing and arrrrring (and that was just me!) I picked up a couple of patterns and a piece of fabric (yes more fabric) I finally bid my farewells and left feeling very chuffed that I had decided to attend- A massive thank-you has to go out again to Charlotte for organising such a superb event and a huge wave to all those that I had the immense pleasure in meeting and conversing with.  Many of which I will be tracking down to follow, if not already,  through the powers and linkage of social media's.

Have a great week  Amanda XX 

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Cynthia, I wonder do you understand this strange thing you give..... Well baby is it your style!

Okay - First up- Question. How the jigery do we ever find time to go to work, raise a family sew and blog?!!! Think I had some hair brain idea that without the work thingy, life would be a breeze and posting my makes would be "a doddle" errrr wrong!! (having a broken camera doesn't ease the situation either, so apologies now for some dodgy phone photograpghy!).     
Cynthia Rowley, just gotta love her patterns, she manages to to have an edge, twist or quirk within her designs, so my tribute to her is in the title to this post; Anybody familiar with the track "Cynthia"? by the Boss-akay Bruce Springsteen phwaaaa. Anyhow, on with the musings.
I was first drawn to this skirt of Cynthia's (Simplicity 2512) by the lovely Karen of Willowwears on good old Facebook and ended up doing a bit of an impromptu pattern swapsie with her. 
I eagerly picked out some fabric way back at Easter; a fabulous silk dupion check and a grey silky satin lining to complete view A/B, only for it to take a whole five moths for it to reach the table never alone the blog-spot (I even have fabric for the other view,  but lordy knows how long that will ever take to morph into a wearable item!)  
Now, there were some initial concerns, that the sizing for this would be a little "snug" never alone pretty darn short, given the finished garment measurement is a mere 19 inches long! WHAA (at 5ft 10 and a little maturer, hmmm the days of a 19 inch skirt are definitely long gone), modifications then included a graded up from a 12 to 14 and a whooping 5 inch lengthening. 
Construction on this pattern is easy enough, albeit some of the instructions aren't perhaps the clearest- the trickiest part was ensuring the self-binding edging was good and even on that gorgeous high waist, a good hot(ish) iron to press the stretch out of the bias, soon tamed that bad boy.  
                                                                      Mid disaster point of first make-up!                                                   
So basically it's, pop in the all important pockets, whip up the side seams and gather between circles back and front- fine and dandy right....hmmm that gathering, quite considerable due to the amount of fabric, and all concentrated slap bang in the tummy area...alarm bells! yet ploughing on, on went the waist band. 
Fitting time, Holy Mo, disappointment overload, I really should of taken some pics but trust me when I say, I looked like an over puffed-up hippo in a tutu! and that is an understatement and an injustice towards the hippo!. 
What did I have - extra length that totally threw the whole shape out and all the tummy gather YUK! Taking to the blog world for reviews, the consensus confirmed that the fullness was..well full. The various pics of fellow bloggers indicated that most distributed the gathers evenly all round.
Loving the fabric and not one to be defeated, Plan B needed to be formulated; out-came the trusty seam ripper and fabric shears. Once de-constructed, 4 inches were sliced off the length and the panel sections reduced to a size 8! 
The gathers switched to pleats, for a more flattering, smoother appearance hopefully and the result.... I really like it, no really really like it. It still has a fair amount of puufff but definitely with more control.  
I think (well I know)the lining gives a lovely finish- it feels lovely and the fact the pockets are so soft mmmmm 
I also backed the waist tie in the same grey for contrast and drape.   
Over-all I think it's a pretty striking item with all of Cynthia's detailing, OO for high waists, OOO for deep pockets and a double OOOO for the self-binding. 
Well, cheerio then sorry, for the long delay in posting - hopefully the next wont take quite so long , but don't hold your breath. 
Till then my fellow sewists' happy construction. XX 

Wednesday, 3 September 2014

A Match Made in Shantung and Lace

Amidst the frenzy of redundancy, job connections and getting the young people back off to school, there seems to have been little time for blogging; yet among the manicness of it all, I have managed to retained a smidgen of sanity (based on the fact, I weren't that sane before!) within the sanctuary of the sewing room; never have I been so grateful for the  focus and positivity of sewing.  So with out further ado... 
There's been so much beautiful lace around this year and as usual I'm a bit slow off the mark. I picked-up this cotton open weave lace fabric quite unintentionally when out shopping with the little Wyatt...There was the usual roll of the eyes as if to say " do you really need that mother" but hey  we all know how it works, strike while the iron is hot and inspired! just need to educate her in the artful practice (although that could come back and bite, ouch)  
Question for you...Do you normally have a clear idea what pattern you will use when you pick a fabric, or just go all gung-ho and hope further inspiration will hit later? Me, I generally have a reasonable idea on a pattern, but not "sew" with this one (owww bad pun sorry).  I just knew I wanted to try out lace and thought this would make-up a decent top of sorts.
Due to the open weave, and to spare others the sight of bare flesh, I also purchased a cream shantung (whoooo how decadently posh) and thought of using it as a lining in some way. 
When it came to making up, many a pattern was pulled out, mused and cogitated over. The more I inspected, draped and handled  the lace, I realised that I didn't want to distort its pattern with pleats, darts or seams, then hey-presto! McCalls 6926 View C, looked as though it would do the job.. minus the 80's hip tie!  
I played a round with attaching the shantung as an interlining, but felt I could end up with a heavy and boxy tunic, completely missing the intention of a light 'n' airy number. "TING", light-bulb moment, a completely separate camisole-top would let the lace show itself off and I'd gain with an extra wardrobe piece that could be utilised- come on now admit it, just how useful is a camisole! I have now worn this with umpteen items, cut another ready with plans for many other variations, mainly down to the fact that, not only is this a great staple.. allow me to plump up the plumage here...I actually managed a "successful" FBA, pushing the dart to the seam!! hallelujah its a miracle
I used the under slip from McCall's 6883 as a template, traced off the upper section, applied the slash and spread principle and rounded the dart leg at the seam. The cami was cut on the bias so the beautiful spring allows it to mould to the body! I went with the matt slubbed side as the right side facing and then the shiny, as the contrasting bias trim and straps. I am particularly proud of the bindings, all self-made, with the straps continued from the front and back trim! oh and a tiny-whiny rolled hem - sorry didn't take a pic of this.
Thought I'd let Valerie model this one,
certainly  best to keep a close up of my chest
 and the bulgy bits that go with it  under wraps! :)  
The lace top itself, with just two pattern pieces has little to offer or dwell upon regards to sewing techniques and ability challenge. The improvisations came with neck, arm and bottom hems. Facings for the neck were obviously out, so more bias strips were cut from the shantung and used to edge the neck and sleeves; wider on the sleeves. 
When it came to the hem I was a bit stumped, 
  • An open weave the lace couldn't be cut to scallop it along its own design
  • A bias edge would look 'naff' 
  • Machine stitching ran a high risk of puckering up!
  • Option left...hand-stitch.

I'm actually starting to get a bit of a dab-hand at the old hand stitching or at least I don't loath it quite as much these days, may-be the endless road of my Westfalenstoffe hem was a cure! A great advantage of hemming lace is that your stitches literally disappear, and the lace retains its 'give' and recovery.                                                   

End result, well I really like this, it's such as easy duo to wear and its simplicity enables it to be dress up or down- I might even try it over a contrasting coloured cami.  
On my last visit to the fabric store, I picked up the same lace but in black...its been reduced to £2.00 a metre! rude not too- so if your signed up and attending the "sew Brum" on Oct 4th you could scoop up a bargain! 
TaTa for now- thanks for dropping by and reading 

Amanda X

Saturday, 16 August 2014

I Beg Your Pardon... "I Never Promised You a Rose Garden"

Okay, I've heard of word association but fabric song association!...really...its driving me bonkers - you know when you get a tune stuck in your head and it just won't budge...agggrrrrr..

Them ikkle yellow rose buds look so innocent on their bed of cerise cotton, and really appealed back in the spring (they certainly have some answering to do now). Not being too sure what I was going to make, I picked up about 2-3 meters (there's a fair bit left so may-be it was 3 - easily get  a top out of the left overs)  
Now, trousers needed to be conquered at some point, especially after my mishap of some cropped denim pants that went from a dowager's hump to a full camel hoof! (I assure you these were beyond decency to blog about) So shorts seemed to be the next best thing to tackle.  
Being soft 'n' floppy cotton this was definitely suited to a wide(er) legged short, something like the Megan Neilson  Tania Culottes  look,  but having already ordered the McCalls 6965 way back in the year, I somehow couldn't justify another pattern purchase...WHAT! I can always justify patterns and fabric- obviously a lapsed  moment  there. 
At this point, I feel rather responsible and perhaps owe the good peeps of Britain and apology for the downturn in weather; we have had some gorgeous sunshine of late with temps of 20+, perfect for wearing shorts- these come a long, with my pasty looking pins and whooosh the sun hides behind clouds!      
I did a bit of background research on these, just to check if there were any anomalies with making up. Soooo glad I did before blundering in, I found these two reviews most helpful  here and here.  There is NOOO way I could wear shorts that short and went for the mid-length version.
Being a diligent sewer (errr..not always), I even made up a muslin to check out potential smiles, frowns and dowager toes! Yep, minor alterations required, to prevent that undignified procedure of internal fabric removal from ones butt! hence the the crotch was dropped by a cm.  
Construction is pretty much straight froward, with each leg made up of four pieces and a centre back zip. To add some customary detailing, yellow piping was added to the waist seams- which gives these fairly ordinary shorts some cuteness.  The one thing I do think that is lacking, are pockets, ye' just gotta have a pocket or two!

These are really easy to wear and I'm seriously considering making up the full length palazzo  version in a cotton viscose that I have in the stash; although toying about increasing the height of the waist and inserting a facing rather than the fixed waistband and of course them all important pockets- what do you think, would it work?

Thanks for popping by and reading; back soon. Amanda XX 

Thursday, 14 August 2014

Silky Squares at 2.30 am

What do you do on a Good Friday, when you take your youngest for a four hour dance session... in Leamington Spa...time you get home, time to turn around and go back...NO! you Google fabric shops and mooch!! Oh yes, my friends, four hours was not nearly long enough (the debit card took quite a bashing) but came back with some beauties to top up the old fabric collection. 
The colour way in this silk is not what I'm normally attracted to, but you know how it talks to you (in that high pitch squeaky voice) " Oh, take me home, and I promise to turn myself into something spectacular !!"    
The pattern used was  McCalls 6883; originally I had ideas on completing view C with the under slip, yet somewhere along the line a change of plan took place and View B was thought to be more suited, although it was touch 'n' go on having enough fabric.
Everything about this fabric oozed evening, slinky and special.If you've read my recent posts you will know about a wedding that I was very excited about and planned on changing for the evening reception.. the day dress here .
Allow me a slight digress here- time was not on my side and after a total melt down over my daughter dress, that did not happen! (the bodice was just to tight when the lining was inserted) and at nine O'clock the night before, the poor girl needed to go to bed, thus resulting in a quick trip to the local shopping centre at 9 am the following morning to kit her out ( Awwwww the shame and the guilt of it, but then again she's not on a RTW fast!) Think I was forgiven after I did her hair, pretty awesome
To appease the self doubt and lick my sewing wounds, I set to task at 9.30 pm the night before the said wedding...just to see if I could put together the planned evening dress.
The fabric had already been cut (boy isn't silk flipping hard to cut) a total mind of its own, it's as if it gets ticklish when you show it the cutting shears and it starts to wriggle about!
Due to its transparency, a nude/champaign very silky satin lining (sorry, not too technically exact there) was used to underline it along with copious amounts of pins to anchor and tame this serpent.  

Sorry the photo a little  out of focus - or was that the wine!!
Front and back darts were inserted  by sewing both the lining and silk together, I had envisaged tiny wee French seams down the side-seams so it would be fluid and flow!! but as time was not going to allow that- so again,  both lining and upper fabric were sewn together. 
Thankfully, my fairy sewing godmother(FSG) must have been looking over me and one concealed zip went in first time! Huzzar, Huzarr. The fitting was fairly minimal as the elasticated back ruching was an absolute godsend. 

The neck band ended up been a little skew but I figured it was on the curve of my shoulder, so not too noticeable. The fastener suggested a hook 'n' bar but I'm never to keen on these - mainly that if they not positioned just so, they can come unhooked! and I certainly didn't want any wardrobe malfunctions, thank-you very much. Instead I went for a decorative button- that should have been way too heavy for the fabric, but FSG again looked after me and it did just the ticket.     
When it came to the hem there was no way the two fabrics could be sewn together, hmmmmm but with the seams joined, this posed a head scratching moment (not needed  nor appreciated at 1.30 am!!) don't give me problems, give me solutions I cry...treat each section individually...four tiny weeny rolled hems later, done I felt like Cinderella by having a new frock to wear to the ball! 

On the day/night I was really happy with the result - perhaps not my best sew technically but it did the job, I even managed to stay upright on them heels as well!!
Have you ever done a mammoth sew into the early hours, just to have something to wear the next day? 

Thursday, 7 August 2014

Westfalenstoffe fit for a Wedding

Everyone loves a good wedding, right? and last Friday the Wyatt Clan attended the most fun and happy weddings in a long time... It's fair to say though, as a guest, finding the right outfit can be a bit of quandary, never alone making one. 
The biggest head scratcher I have to say was "which" pattern to choose, copious amounts of sourcing and reviewing narrowed it down to Vogue's Bellville Sassoon 1296; this is so me and I just fell in love with the whole outfit. However...the wedding had a vintage theme to it, so in keeping I plumped with the Butterick 6018

The Fabric used was a Westfalenstoffe Organic Cotton, Red Pink Flowers and Birds from Dragonfly Fabric's with a great offer of 15% off thanks to the promotion from Jane @ Handmadejane .

I started the said project two weeks prior to the event- rather late I know, but life on the hamster wheel had been spinning pretty fast for me to get off any earlier. 
Having used Butterick patterns previously, here  here and here, I had experienced various fitting issues up top, but never ( can you believe) completed a FBA! ( Full Bust Adjustment). Wanting to get the best fit possible, it was also the perfect opportunity to test out the enormous amount of research material of tutorials, tips and instructions that are out there. It all seems so straight forward and logical when your reading about it!
Not to make this post too long winded, nine muslins later!!! and I'd just about cracked it; it was like a rewrite of Goldilocks and her bears, this ones too tight, this ones to loose, this the time I'd finished I didn't even need to refer to the excellent tutorial by Christine Haynes.I'd gone on my upper bust measurement, applied the rule of increasing 1 cm per cupsize or 1/2 the total difference between upper and full measurements = both came out at 3cm. (but too big)The biggest issue was when the sleeve was inserted, it just changed the whole fit...too tight under the arm due to the increased U shape of the armscye shape becoming; if anybody has some wisdom on this it would be gratefully received. 
Think you can see just here that there is some tension around the front arm area. Darn-it!
One positive technique I came up with (sure I wont be rocking many boats) but I thought it was pretty smart, was to use sewers carbon paper to mark the darts- I then basted down the centre line to join the interlining fabric, then sewed the dart legs together - result, no shifting of interlining, no bubbles at dart points yeh!!

I wanted the white back ground to retain its crispness, and used a really fine cotton voile to interline the bodice section but hang as a loose lining for the skirt; sharpness of the white works perfectly but it did added a tiny tad too much weight.
In for a penny in for a pound as they say- a net skirt was added for additional va-va-voom- This again I thought was pretty genius! attached with popper tape that's used for duvet covers! this way the net doesn't have to be worn every-time nor laundered so will keeps its umph. 
Okay fair cop, one flaw it would of been better if it was sandwiched between the dress fabric and lining, as it was a bit itchy on the legs (an additional slip remedied that!)  
Overall I think it was a great sew, the bust fitting could still be improved and not too sure the style is really me, hence will it be worn again? not too sure - but saying that, how many times back in the RTW purchasing are we guilty of only wearing something once for an occasion..I know I am!. Having said that, it did make me feel very girly and I'm totally proud and in love all the little details that I took the time to include, from the self- covered buttons and contrast cuffs, to the hand stitched 3 meter hem! oh,and the pretty much perfect invisible zipper, with matching side seams may I just add - whoo it really nearly is invisible. 

I leave you with these swoosh shots and a note about the shoes- please say you noticed them? they're "Ruby Shoo, Natalie"- I also own Kate and Miley and have my eye on Gwyneth, but until I fine me a new job, she will have to wait - hehehe
Well thanks for stopping by and reading-I'm off to write the post on the dress that was very hastily made for the evening reception! XX